kuinka keulitaan??

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Wallu
Viestit: 888
Liittynyt: Ti Elo 19, 2003 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: Gsxr 750 - Hiomaton timangi + CBR600rr -Stunt-06

Viesti Kirjoittaja Wallu » Ma Huhti 17, 2006 10:44 am

Ja sitten pitää kysyä, että mikäs näistä "keulimis" videoista olisi se paras?
Muistaakseni LEVEL X:llä on yksi ja sit taannoin oli tuolla video osiossa se joku pätkä, missä se yksi jamppa opetti, miten keulitellaan, kun on varmaan vain otos jostain ihan videosta.

Eikun treenaamaan :D
Zori...

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Jukka85
Viestit: 1627
Liittynyt: Ma Loka 13, 2003 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: Japanian pimmee puoli

Viesti Kirjoittaja Jukka85 » Ma Huhti 17, 2006 10:47 am

Ei sitä videoita katsomalla opi :wink:

Ride-
Viestit: 1040
Liittynyt: Ma Touko 03, 2004 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: K4 gixxeri ja CB Honda

Viesti Kirjoittaja Ride- » Ma Huhti 17, 2006 12:07 pm

Jukka85 kirjoitti:Yks mikä auttaa kanssa on rauhallinen paikka harjotella :D Ei siinä hirveesti ehi jäämään päähän kun pari kertaa käy nykäsemässä ja eiku karkuun ennen kun siat saapuu.
Helpommin sanottu ku tehty, eipä hirveesti ole pk-seudulla rauhallisia harjoittelupaikkoja... (Lavanko tietty). Kai sitä on siis ihan virallisille paikoille mentävä harjottelemaan :blah:

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No_Limit
Viestit: 538
Liittynyt: To Loka 06, 2005 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: Husaqvarna

Viesti Kirjoittaja No_Limit » Ma Huhti 17, 2006 12:58 pm

se pv video oli kyllä aika hullu ei sitä joka poika luota pv:n taka akselin kestävyyteen noin paljoa.

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Jukka85
Viestit: 1627
Liittynyt: Ma Loka 13, 2003 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: Japanian pimmee puoli

Viesti Kirjoittaja Jukka85 » Ma Huhti 17, 2006 1:06 pm

Palkkiz kirjoitti:se pv video oli kyllä aika hullu ei sitä joka poika luota pv:n taka akselin kestävyyteen noin paljoa.
Mitähän mahdat sopertaa? :freak:

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No_Limit
Viestit: 538
Liittynyt: To Loka 06, 2005 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: Husaqvarna

Viesti Kirjoittaja No_Limit » Ma Huhti 17, 2006 1:56 pm

fullman kirjoitti:näin se hoituu kato täält kremilin.urli.net ja sielt pv-video

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Jukka85
Viestit: 1627
Liittynyt: Ma Loka 13, 2003 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: Japanian pimmee puoli

Viesti Kirjoittaja Jukka85 » Ma Huhti 17, 2006 2:04 pm

Mitäs jos pidettäs peeveet poissa tästä keskustelusta?

jep
Viestit: 214
Liittynyt: La Tammi 11, 2003 1:00 am

Viesti Kirjoittaja jep » To Huhti 27, 2006 1:12 am

Pistetäänpäs ny tänne tämmönen tarina stuntlife forumilta:
Before riding wheelies on a bike
If you have access to a quad, a dirt bike, or a fiddy, learn wheelies on that first. What you learn about throttle control and the balance point will help you in learning to ride a wheelie on a bike. If you’re ready to learn on a bike then: 1. Make sure the rear brake works and adjust the lever to a comfortable height. 2. There should be 1in. of play in chain slack. A chain too tight or too loose will wear out the chain and sprockets faster than normal. 3. Make sure there are no cracks in the foot pegs, and make sure all of the bolts are tight.

Speed and riding position for learning wheelies
I recommend that beginners learn wheelies if first gear. It is easier to launch the wheelie in first gear, and there is more engine breaking in first gear. This means that you can ride a wheelie higher without the danger of looping it. It also hurts much less and breaks less stuff when you crash in first gear. For that reason i don't think it is a good idea to do highspeed wheelies until using the brake is second nature. It is also much easier to go from riding out first gear wheelies to second gear wheelies than vice versa. The only downfall to learning wheelies in first vs. seconds is that the wheelie won’t be as smooth. The throttle will feel much more sensitive. I think fifteen mph is a good speed to launch wheelies while learning; any slower and the wheelie may feel unstable to a beginner. I also recommend learning wheelies standing up with the left foot on the passenger peg, and the right foot on the front peg, covering the brake. While it may feel awkward at first to wheelie while standing, it will be easier after you get used to that part. Most people think it is easier to balance and control a wheelie standing up vs. sitting down. It is also easier to launch the wheelie from standing up.

Why clutching wheelies is the best method for launching wheelies
Clutching is by far the best way to get wheelies up, regardless of whether the bike has enough power to power it up. While it does wear out clutch plates a little faster than normal, the difference is not significant. I also have never read about any major problems as the result of the extra tension on the drive train. There are many advantages to clutching wheelies vs. powering wheelies. 1. It allows you to wheelie bikes that don’t have enough power to power it up. 2. You can wheelie at lower rpm’s, and therefore slower speeds. This allows beginners to keep a wheelie up longer, with out being at the balance point. 3. The launch is more predictable. When powering a wheelie up, the front end comes up relatively slow. Then when the front end is about 3 feet off the ground, the front end jumps up very fast under full throttle, making for a scary and unpredictable launch. When clutching up wheelies right, the front jumps up close to the balance point. From there you just play with the throttle to fine adjust the height. After a little practice, clutching becomes very predictable and not frightening at all. 4. All of the pros that I know of clutch every wheelie. You want to be like them don’t you?

How to clutch wheelies
There are a couple different methods for clutching wheelies. I prefer the second method.
Method 1: First accelerate with the clutch engaged. Then, with the throttle still opened, pull in the clutch with one finger, to the point where the clutch disengages. With the engine still under throttle, quickly let the clutch back out as the tach is rising.
Method 2: Close the throttle, and then pull the clutch in all the way, with one finger. Then twist the throttle and dump the clutch.
When learning to clutch, only rev up the engine a little bit at first before letting out the clutch. This will give you the feel for clutching. Then gradually increase the rpm’s before dumping the clutch, until the front end jumps up close to the balance point. Reduce the throttle as the front end comes up to the balance point. If it comes up too far, gently push the rear brake to bring the bike back forward. When clutching second and third gear wheelies, the bike may need extra help, depending on what bike it is. If clutching alone doesn’t get the wheelie up, then bounce at the same time. This is done by pushing down on the bike (with your arms and legs) at the same time you open the throttle, and then leaning back slightly when dropping the clutch. I is not a good idea to pull on the bars. Pulling up on the bars may cause the wheelie to come up funny and wobble.


Shifting gears
I don’t recommend shifting gears during a wheelie unless you are good at wheelies, and are able to use the clutch in the process. Otherwise, shifting during wheelies is hard on the transmission. It is also hard on the fork seals if you miss a shift. My advice is to learn to ride wheelies at a constant speed. Then there will be no need to shift.


How to set a wheelie down
When bringing down a wheelie, stay on the throttle until the front end is safely on the ground. If it is necessary to quickly bring down the front end, then close the throttle at first. Then as the front is coming down, open the throttle. In that way you will have a soft landing.

Step by step procedure to launch a wheelie for a beginner
1. Drop the tire pressure to about 15-20psi
2. Put the bike into first gear
3. Go about 15mph
4. Pull in the clutch
5. Rev up the engine a little and drop the clutch
6. Repeat step 5, increasing the rpm’s, until the front end comes up close to the balance point.
7. Reduce the throttle as the front end comes up to the balance point.
8. Cover the rear brake.
9. Stay on the throttle as it comes back down.

Balancing the wheelie from front to back
Balancing front to back is controlled by using the throttle and rear brake. It is a good idea to learn this on a quad, fiddy, or dirtbike first. If the wheelie is in front of the balance point, you must increase your speed to remain at that position. To get the wheelie back to the balance point, you must compensate with more throttle. This is the same, only in reverse, when the wheelie is behind the balance point. When behind the balance point, you must use the engine breaking/ rear brake to bring it forward to the balance point. The balance point is the position of the bike in which it neither has to speed up or slow down to remain at the same position. The height of the balance point is affected mainly by the speed of the wheelie. The faster the wheelie is, the lower the balance point. The balance point is also slightly affected by the weight distribution of the bike and the position of the rider. The object of riding a balanced wheelie is to keep the bike as close as possible to the balance point. This is done by rolling on and off the throttle, and pushing the brake if needed. With practice comes the ability to ride a smooth wheelie with out playing with the throttle/brake much.

Balancing the wheelie from side to side
Balancing sided to side is done by adjusting your body position. It is a good idea to learn this on a dirtbike, bicycle, or fiddy first. When riding wheelies over about 20mph, the bike will balance itself for the most part. It is the slow wheelies that you have to consciously balance side to side. The principle is pretty simple. Quickly lean the same direction as the bike is falling. For example, if the bike is starting to fall to the left, you would quickly lean to the left. This movement would twist the bike towards the left, thereby correcting it.

Preventing / stopping wheelie wobbles
From my experience, I think that high speed wheelie wobbles can be caused by having a squared off rear tire, not being smooth on the throttle, and/or making quick movements. Slow speed wobbles seems to be caused by high rear tire pressure, and/or not keeping the wheelie balanced from side to side.

Steering wheelies
To steer wheelies good, you need to either be at the balance point, or behind the balance point. To steer wheelies which are over about 20mph, you simply slowly lean in the direction you want to turn. However, to turn slow wheelies, you must first make the bike lean in the direction which you want to turn. For example, if you want to turn to the right, first, slowly lean to the right. Then quickly lean a little to the left / twist the handlebars a little to the left. This will cause the bike to start to fall to the right. Then, instead of completely correcting the lean, you keep the bike leaning at that angle. This will cause the bike to turn to the right.

Using the rear brake: Slowing wheelies down / 12s
Wheelies are slowed down by riding the wheelie behind the balance point. This is one of the hardest parts of learning to wheelie, not because of skill, but because of the balls required. To learn how to use the rear brake, you basically need to grow some balls, bring the wheelie up behind the balance point, and tap the brake. Soon this process will become second nature. To slow a wheelie down, you must give the bike enough throttle to get the wheelie behind the balance point. Now if you get scared and push the rear break hard at this point, it will quickly bring the wheelie forward without slowing it down much. To slow it down, you must keep it behind the balance point by gently riding the brake. To 12, you just do the same thing, only you get off the rear break enough to allow the bike to lean back on the tail. Unless you plan on parking a 12, make sure you get back on the brake before the wheelie slows down enough to stall the engine.

Riding slow wheelies
After you get good at slowing down wheelies, then you should be able to ride slow wheelies out. First of all, turn up your idle. I do slow stuff with the idle at 3.5k rpm’s. The high idle allows you to ride slow wheelies much smoother. Be careful, however, when first turning up the idle, because you will have to use the rear brake, when going slow, to keep from looping. When riding slow wheelies with the idle high, with some practice, you should be able to ride the wheelie by using the brake, and only blipping the throttle if the wheelie starts to come down.

Once you have learned all of this, all of the wheelie variations will pretty much be self explanatory.

castle
Viestit: 352
Liittynyt: Ke Huhti 26, 2006 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: tön

Viesti Kirjoittaja castle » Su Huhti 30, 2006 1:40 pm

Ja mahdollisesti sama videona tossa noin,
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... ie&pl=true

Ollu ennenkin täälä varmaan. :deal:

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Wallu
Viestit: 888
Liittynyt: Ti Elo 19, 2003 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: Gsxr 750 - Hiomaton timangi + CBR600rr -Stunt-06

Viesti Kirjoittaja Wallu » La Touko 06, 2006 7:02 pm

Ei toi mun pyörä vaan keuli kaasusta 1-vaihteella.. tai sit en vaa osaa :freak:

Kun siis kaasulla opettelee, niin pitääkö se hana avata samassa kohdassa, kun tulee se "tehopiikki"? Ei se varmaan tasaisella kaasulla kovin herkästi keuli.

Joo... vastatkaa jos tahdotte :lol: Pitää opetella lissää :upto:
Zori...

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jaket
Viestit: 2709
Liittynyt: Ti Touko 18, 2004 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: SPEED3 1050 & thunderace

Viesti Kirjoittaja jaket » La Touko 06, 2006 8:23 pm

mee jonnekkin 'suoralle' niin joku opettaa, ei oo häpee kysyä
Sportbike is a amplifier for stupidity. One bad idea turns into fatality very fast.
------------------

Azki
Viestit: 457
Liittynyt: To Kesä 03, 2004 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: K6

Viesti Kirjoittaja Azki » La Touko 06, 2006 9:42 pm

Wallu kirjoitti:Ei toi mun pyörä vaan keuli kaasusta 1-vaihteella.. tai sit en vaa osaa :freak:

Kun siis kaasulla opettelee, niin pitääkö se hana avata samassa kohdassa, kun tulee se "tehopiikki"? Ei se varmaan tasaisella kaasulla kovin herkästi keuli.

Joo... vastatkaa jos tahdotte :lol: Pitää opetella lissää :upto:
kyl taitaa mennä toho jälkimmäiseen vaihtoehtoon..eiköhän 750 gixeri ykkösellä keuli melkei miten päi vaa..hyvä jos ei jopa kakkosellaki kaasusta?koita kaasulla tehä sellainen "on/off" liike jossai 6-7000rpm..eli nopeesti pikkase hölläät eka ja sit avaat..pitäs nousta... :freak2:
vaikka en kyl itekkä osaa.. :lol: :lol: :lol:

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ingle
Viestit: 131
Liittynyt: Pe Heinä 15, 2005 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: Briggs & Stratton

Viesti Kirjoittaja ingle » Ma Touko 08, 2006 8:15 am

Azki kirjoitti:
Wallu kirjoitti:Ei toi mun pyörä vaan keuli kaasusta 1-vaihteella.. tai sit en vaa osaa :freak:

Kun siis kaasulla opettelee, niin pitääkö se hana avata samassa kohdassa, kun tulee se "tehopiikki"? Ei se varmaan tasaisella kaasulla kovin herkästi keuli.

Joo... vastatkaa jos tahdotte :lol: Pitää opetella lissää :upto:
kyl taitaa mennä toho jälkimmäiseen vaihtoehtoon..eiköhän 750 gixeri ykkösellä keuli melkei miten päi vaa..hyvä jos ei jopa kakkosellaki kaasusta?koita kaasulla tehä sellainen "on/off" liike jossai 6-7000rpm..eli nopeesti pikkase hölläät eka ja sit avaat..pitäs nousta... :freak2:
vaikka en kyl itekkä osaa.. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Itse sanoisin, että se rykäsy on avain sana :D , kierrokset ykkösellä sinne 6000 ja vauhtia n.40-50km/h ja sit kunnon nykäsy tangosta ja samalla kaasua :D
Omena anuksessa pitää homot loitolla...

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Jukka85
Viestit: 1627
Liittynyt: Ma Loka 13, 2003 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: Japanian pimmee puoli

Viesti Kirjoittaja Jukka85 » Ma Touko 08, 2006 12:11 pm

Kytkin.

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Make.
Viestit: 447
Liittynyt: To Heinä 01, 2004 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: k3/1000

Viesti Kirjoittaja Make. » Ma Touko 08, 2006 8:21 pm

Jukka85 kirjoitti:Kytkin.
..niin ei tarvitse repiä sarvia irti pyörästä

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